The North West Coast has particularly
outstanding scenery. The landscape you
view today is the result of geologically
recent surface processes acting on much
more ancient underlying rocks.
The oldest rocks to be found in the Lochbroom
area are at Corrie and were formed about
3000 million years ago deep down in the
earth's crust at enormous pressures and
temperatures. They are called Lewsisian
Gneiss and are extremely hard, which explains
why the Loch is narrower here as the ice
that occupied the valley found it more
resistant to erosion. The gneiss often
consists of bands of light and dark minerals.
There then followed a long period of
erosion, and eventually the gneiss was
brought to the surface about 1000 million
years ago. It formed a hilly landscape
with rivers flowing in valleys. Higher
mountains existed where the Atlantic is
today. These provided pebbles, sand and
mud, which were carried by the rivers,
filling the valleys and eventually burying
the hills. As the sediment was deposited
in layers and buried, it slowly turned
in to solid rock, preserving these structures.
The rock formed is called Torridonian
Sandstone, which is dark red, mostly sandstone
(made of sand) or conglomerate (made of
pebbles and sand). About 570 million years
ago, a warm sea gradually invaded the
area eroding both the Torridonian Sandstone
and the Lewisian Gneiss. First beach sand
and then shallow sea sediment, consisting
of mud and lime, were deposited along
with some animal remains, which formed
fossils such as trilobites. Also worm
burrows are preserved as colour variations
in the rocks. The lime formed limestone,
which is quarried on the road to Rhidorroch
and used mostly as agricultural lime,
which is distributed all over the North
of Scotland.
The whole area was then
involved in a huge mountain building episode
as two massive continental blocks ran
into each other. Folds, faults and intrusions
of magna were formed beneath the mountains
that were produced by this continental
collision. They were probably on the scale
of the present day Himalayas. This movement
was completed about 400 million years
ago.
The story since then has
been mostly of erosion, with rivers cutting
valleys which were then deepened and extended
by glaciers in the last half million years.
This can be seen in the Lochbroom Valley
itself. Changing levels of both sea and
the land have formed raised beaches, two
levels of which can be seen in Ullapool.
The upper one, (the elder) has most of
the village of Ullapool built on it and
the lower has Shore Street and the caravan
park. The results of some of these momentous
events can easily be seen around Ullapool.
Standing on Shore Street and looking southeast
along the length of the glaciated valley
towards its head, the narrows at Corrie
can be seen and the distant mountains
of Beinn Dearg and the Fannich Hills.
These mountains supplied some of the ice
that flowed down Lochbroom and lie on
the other side of a major fault, which
was formed during the mountain building
episode 400 million years ago. These mountains
themselves, however, were only uplifted
much more recently. The valley was flooded
at the end of the last ice age to form
a sea loch.
The rocks immediately on the other side
of the loch to Ullapool are red Torridonian
Sandstone; the layers in which it was
deposited are almost horizontal and are
visible from here in good light. Any major
vertical lines you can see are probably
faults, which provide planes of weakness
for erosion to exploit. Most of the older
houses in Ullapool are built of this dark
red sandstone.
The road cuttings on the Dingwall road
towards Corrie give the opportunity to
see some of the rock types mentioned.
Starting in Ullapool, the red Torridonian
Sandstone exists by the footpath before
you reach the Four Seasons Hotel. Opposite
the Four Seasons the white/grey sandstone
marks the first rock deposited as the
sea invaded the area 570 million years
ago. Over the first bridge, this rock
continues until the top of a road cutting
shows a younger rusty brown mudstone formed
in quieter waters. The white/pink sandstone
below shows worm burrows here but the
rock face is not very stable and should
not be approached. The limestone appears
at the bottom of the next road cutting
as a grey coloured layer with a low angle
fault above it, sloping at about 15 degrees
eastward. This was one of the faults formed
in the major mountain building episode.